I am engulfed in sound. It’s familiar in tone, but when I try to separate it into words, it becomes chaos. It hums — and sometimes, roars — around me, punctuated by the bright noise of wine glasses meeting. Tink!
Eating out is intimidating. Just ordering – no, asking for a table – makes my mouth sweat.
Tonight, I order wine and the scallop mezzalune with lobster ragout – by pointing. It feels so caveman, but I’ve learned my lesson. I made the mistake of speaking Italian at the first restaurant. A mistake, only because I did it correctly. And in reply, came a flurry of songwords — some vaguely familiar because of their closeness to Spanish, but mostly foreign and confounding. I simply shrugged in response.
Mi dispiace. No parlo Italiano.
And still, she looked at me as if certain I was telling a fib. As though she wanted to say, But you just did speak Italian. Finally she gave up, grabbed a menu and smiled.
“Okay, dee-ner for one. Yes?”
Sigh. Yes. Dinner for one.
The roar dies, just for a second, and I think I can hear one of my own thoughts. But then poof! it gets lost again as the table next to me erupts in cheers. Accustomed to restaurants where people make polite chit-chat over dinner, the Italian dining experience is an adventure in frenzy. Loud and indistinguishable – it makes me feel drunk. Or drugged. Or underwater.
But I don’t mind too much. Because the wine is so excellent – my nostrils get a taste before the glass in to my lips – and the food is equally hypnotizing. And before I know it, it’s gone. All the Porcini mushrooms and the roasted pork. Gone. And then another face is floating in front of me, singing words that don’t register. After a moment, the face darkens, then brightens.
“Ooh, eez Een-gleesh, yes? You want something else?”
Yes. Dessert.
(I recorded 30 seconds of ambient noise at the restaurant to share. It recorded at low volume, so you may have to turn it up. In fact, DO turn it up. You know, for that next-best-thing-to-being-there feeling.Download it here.)
I had the exact same thing happen to me when I was in Italy!
I was so proud of learning a few phrases in Italian, and then completely crushed when I realized that I couldn’t understand a word of the response. It was embarassing and heartbreaking all at the same time.
But the food and wine and everything was amazing, so I got over it all pretty quickly…
It must be wonderful to be in Italy, but terrible to be there alone. The ambient sounds are kinda comforting though – like being in a cafeteria where you have no responsibility to say anything to anyone. Hope you enjoy the rest of your stay!!
how bizarre to listen to the conversations in another language of people i don’t know dining in a country i’m not in! cool download. sounds like a fabulous dinner.
Interesting listening. Sorta like litening to a Monty Python (??) sketch where they are all saying, “mumble, mumble, mumble mumble.” Alone in a crowd. But I’m terribly envious! I went to Italy on a high school trip, so I missed out on all the fine dining … it was “vork and peas” every night. Vork? Could be veal, could be pork. You take your guess. Enjoy, bella!
The sound bite gave me chills. Thank you for bring me a bit of your journey!
Love it … and when you’re back to polite, mellow conversation in restaurants at home you’ll probably miss chaotic moments like this!
I think you’re amazing for dining out alone – and in an entirely other country, all the more awesome! I hope I can be like that eventually. Hope you’re enjoying every second to the fullest, it sounds just wonderful.
So how many times have you had gelato so far…and what are your favorites?
If you’re going to be in Rome, you should definitely check out the little espresso roasterie off of Plaza del Sant’ Eustachio (forgive my complete ignorance of Italian). It’s exquisite! Just look for the yellow bags with an emblem of a stag with a Christian cross jutting out of its forehead.
THAT was Awesome! I wish that I was there with you too…. Thank you for sharing. Your writing of your experience is also excellent! I enjoyed it immensely. (sp?)
Now if you could just post the smell. THAT would hit the spot.
I’ve wanted SO BADLY to share the smells with you guys, but man, that’s not possible. Maybe when technology catches up…
That DID sound like being underwater. The only thing that stood out was the tones of the different voices. Hmm..Sounds of the Sea.
It sounds like a record playing backwards. lol
I thought I knew plenty of Italian, too…WRONG!
I did find, though, that they are more willing to slow down and help you with your conversational skills the further south you go…Rome being the cut-off point. Further south than Rome, it’s a COMPLETELY different accent that left me wondering if I’d accidentally ended up in Greece.
If you say, “Sono americana, parla lentamente, per favore!” with a big smile, most are very accommodating…just a thought!
It certainly was interesting to hear what people say about you when they think you can’t understand…
Have I mentioned lately how jealous I am? I’ve never been to Italy, but someday I will go!
Sea shells with the sound of the ocean inside? I wonder if you hold one of those big pasta shells (conchiglioni) to your ear, that’s what you might hear. Really nice idea to put that clip up. Avventure felici!
I love stories of your adventures, and would love to hear your thoughts on the pros/cons of traveling alone. I’ve done it and half loved/ half hated that I didn’t have someone to come home and share the experience with (sort of like dating). I’d be interested in your eloquent perceptions.
I LOVE Italy.
But, seeing as how I am Latin, the noise was not exactly unexpected XD
Sorry, I can’t get past the words “Porcini mushrooms and the roasted pork”. *drool*
Try throwing out “Io parlo un po’ l’italiano” and gesture juuust how tiny an amount of Italian you know. I find that’s more helpful. The best way to learn is through conversation, so this is a good way to indicate you have the language skills of a three year old.
I’d be interested in your thoughts on traveling alone, too. My jaw dropped a little at megan’s comment. I love eating out alone and traveling alone…you meet so many great people that way! And, if you’re not feeling like people, well, speaking for myself, I rather like my own company. I’d imagine you would too.
I know this is going to sound completely insane since you’re in Italy but the best Indian food I ever had was in Rome at a place called Maharajah. It’s on Via de Serpenti near the Colosseum. Truly spectacular.
And while you’re at it, head to the Hotel de Russie for an evening drink on their back patio. It’s lovely. It’s on Via del Babuino right next to Piazza del Popolo.
I did a movie in Italy a few years ago & had the pleasure of spending 5 months there (hence the Indian food – I got kind of sick of pasta after awhile). I’m so jealous. Enjoy you’re time.